"A city where loveliness is the bare minimum" - Matt Bolton, BBC
A city with medieval architecture, friendly people, and a history intertwined with espionage and secrecy during its rule by Russia and the KGB. Tallinn, the capital city of Estonia, is an UNESCO World Heritage capital city. It is the cutest city that I have ever seen. See the tiny blue train that they use for transportation. We found out the hard way that the sidewalks are not really plowed from the snow. Our friend almost got frostbite from her suede booties, but seeing the medieval style architecture was very interesting. Below is my list of Tallinn highlights and a little bit of their historical significance, besides the amazing food and service, which you can read about here!
1) Depoo Market
My highest recommendation. The outside shops were not in full swing, but the inside market area was adorable and offered everything from handmade wool hats, socks, and other gifts along with homemade food. Everyone in our group found some unique souvenirs here for ourselves or other people. Estonia is known for antiquing as well, so this is a great spot for unique finds.
2) Kohtuostsa Viewing platform
A viewing platform of the entire city of Tallinn with its medieval architecture and Old Town. There is a ledge where you can sit with a sign that says “The Times We Had.” There are also appears to be a seagull that owns this spot and appears in every photo I have seen of this spot. A very popular Instagram spot that features great views of the city and other restaurants and shops once you reach the top of the stairs.
3) Kuma Art Museum
Opened in 2006, this circular museum showcases history from 18th century to contemporary art. My friend and I loved this museum, even on a short period of time. Tickets for adults are only €8 ($8.94) with concession tickets at €6 ($6.71) for students and seniors. Each floor focuses on a different era of history with the 3rd floor covering the 18th century-1945, the 4th floor spanning from 1945-1991, and the 5th floor finishing with contemporary art. The exhibit mainly focuses on Estonia history and art. There was an interesting section called “Conflicts and Adaptations” that showed Estonia Art of the Soviet Era from 1940-1991. They are open Tuesday-Friday starting at 10 AM until 6 PM and until 8 PM on Thursday. If you get the chance, check this museum out. They have rotating exhibits that feature artists like Gordon Matta-Clark and Anu Vahtra Eemaldamisetaltervikoni about changing cities in society, including New York.
Website: https://kumu.ekm.ee/
4) Office of the President- Vabariigi Presidendi Kantselei
This building serves as both the office and the residence of the President. Nearby is the previous building used, The Kadriorg Palace, which is now an art museum for 16th-20th century international art. This Baroque style palace was originally for Catherine I of Russia and means Catherine’s Valley. The Palace is connected to the other parts of the Art Museum of Estonia, including the Kuma.
5) Tallinn Town Hall Square
One of the most characteristic parts of Tallinn, the square. As part of Old Town, it takes you back to medieval times. It can be a bit touristy with people dressed up in medieval style costumes trying to get you to try their restaurants. However, there are some places to eat and some shops. There are also some historically significant buildings in this square. The Town Hall is a meeting place used to be the center of town where political and economic happenings occurred, including a courthouse and theater. Now, it is used for concerts or visiting important people.Built in the 13th century, it is the oldest city hall at least in Northern Europe. There is also the oldest pharmacy in Europe. Tallinn’s Town Hall Square is an area that you cannot miss.
6) Parliament
The Estonia parliament is called Riigikogu. It is housed in a pink building across from the famous Russian Orthodox Church. It is formed by 101 members who are elected for four year terms to represent the nation. There are tours available to the public during the week.
Website: https://www.riigikogu.ee/en/visit-us/visit-riigikogu/tours-tour-guides/
7) St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
A Russian Orthodox Church named for the Prince of Novgorod during the era when tsarist Russia ruled Estonia. It was a power move to place this architectural feat where there was previously a statue of Martin Luther and across the street from Parliament. The church is open to visitors at no cost when services are not in session.
Website: https://nevskysobor.ee/index.php/bogosluzheniya-i-tainstva/raspisanie-bogosluzhenij
8) St. Olaf’s Church
Unfortunately, St. Olaf’s Church was closed during our visit for winter and has a renovation planned, so check their website when planning your trip. It is supposed to have a good view with the Oleviste Tower viewing platform. It is open from 10:00-18:00 and is only 3 Euro or 2 Euro for students. Between 1549-1625, this church was the tallest building in all of Europe and at one point was the tallest building in the world. It has suffered 10 lightning strikes and 3 fires as a result of its height. It reminds and will remind the tallest building in Tallinn due to an agreement between developers.
Website: http://oleviste.ee/
9) KGB history
While we did not get the chance to visit any of the museums, the history of espionage and KGB involvement in Estonia is all around. We passed by some of the former KGB houses near the Russian Orthodox Church, which are listed on walking tours such as Rick Steves’. There is the Museum of Occupations and Freedom, which tells the stories of terror of Soviet occupation as well as resistance. They are open from 10:00-18:00 Monday-Sunday with 11 Euro tickets or 7 Euro discount tickets for students and older people. Visitors can get a joint ticket or a separate ticket to visit the former KGB prison cells where the basement of a house was used to beat torture, and sentence even ordinary people to death or imprisonment.
“Surveillance was a way of life in this city” -Peep Ehasalu, Former manager of Hotel Viru
Hotel Viru, a full-functioning, luxury hotel was the hotel deemed appropriate for foreign visitors use as well as a site for KGB activity. It has since had the secret floor turned into a museum with donated old equipment used by former KGB members. Walking around the city, other historical landmarks were used by the KGB, including St. Olaf’s Cathedral which was overtaken as the highest point to jam signals such as radio and TV and the Toompea Castle where Parliament is held was used as the last line of defense by the Estonia Defense League to resist occupation returning to their beloved country. If you are curious about more of the history of the KGB and spying in Estonia, you can read a BBC article interviewing various local people here.
